An exhibition at the Winchester Discovery Centre depicting an iconic British style.
Photo: Irina Gorskaia
When we imagine British fashion the first thing that springs to mind is the trench coat. “Trench Coat: From Field to Fashion” at the Winchester Discovery Centre explores the style classic from its original trench crafone incarnation right through to the catwalk.
The curator of the exhibition, Tara McKinney, Arts Resources Officer at Hampshire County Council, has been researching the history of the trench coat and working on the exhibition for the past two years and wanted to dedicate this exhibition to the important date – 100 years since the First World War began – when this truly functional garment first gained in popularity. “We wanted to have a very strong Hampshire focus because Thomas Burberry opened his first shop here in 1856 and was responsible for the innovation of a new textile technique – the gabardine” – says Tara McKinney.
The exhibition includes eleven garments of various designers from different years. This allows us to follow the history of the trench coat from its very first appearance in the late nineteenth century. The huge dress reform, which intended to make clothes more comfortable and durable, has brought about the introduction of trench coats for the French and British officers. “It started to be marketed to women in the First World War time”. There was something about the pride of it: it was supporting the forces while they were away, curator Tara McKinney says. “After the war it started to filter into different social classes and became available not only to the officers, but also to civilians”.
The small, simple space is impressive. An amazing trench coat designed by Jean Paul Gaultier for his ready-to-wear collection called “Les Parisiennes” in 2000 is the first trench in the spotlight. Made of traditional wool gabardine it is an example of a classic trench coat, which is followed by some historical pieces from the times of the World War I, such as an authentic cavalry trench coat provided by the Hampshire County Council and many other historical pieces others. This allows visitors to learn more about the meaningful history of this iconic garment.
The story of a trench coat continues in a film projections as well as with photographs of Audrey Hepburn in Charade (1963), Marlene Dietrich in Manpower (1941), Elizabeth Taylor wearing white trench coat (c. 1950). Appearing in film allowed the trench coat to filter into people’s consciousness, and soon, their wardrobes.
To contrast, in the other side of the room more modern pieces are displayed, such as mixed fibres trench coat designed by Rei Kawakubo for Commes des Garcons and mirrored plastic trench coat by Gareth Pugh. “From the very beginning trench coat did not have a one particular pattern, there were no regulations or mandatory features that provided freedom for designers to interpret their ideas,” – explains Tara McKinney. There are also two garments designed by students of the Winchester School of Art – Jonathan Wadland and Shiyuan Liu that show forward-thinking technology as well as the individuality of the young designers hand and the future of creativity.
Any lover of art, history, photography, film and fashion would come away from the exhibition admiring the impressive story of the trench coat – a design classic and timeless icon that embodies heritage, tradition, function and fashion.
Great Information! The collection is full of wearable, classic shapes with a modern twist and is made from the finest silks in unique bold prints. Get 10% off when you sign up.
Thanks, I am really happy with these great tips. British womenswear clothing and accessories fashion brand, Shrimps grew from faux fur outerwear leading the conversation on cruelty-free fashion.